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Tuesday 7 August

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After breakfast and personal devotions, we continued to paint the doors and their frames. Unfortunately, some of the frames we had already undercoated and glossed had since had extra beading added. Communication continued to be a problem throughout, creating a number of frustrating situations.
Giraffe_1.jpg (241149 bytes)After lunch, we headed to the Giraffe Centre for our first real tourist moment – a luxury afforded by the day’s delay in travelling to Garsen. We saw the warthogs and fed the giraffes, before going on a ‘nature trail’. We acquired a knowledgeable local guide, who worked at the centre. He assured us that we would get lost without him, but askedGiraffe_2.jpg (240375 bytes) for no payment. Knowing from the advertising that there were 178 different species of bird in the sanctuary, I asked if our guide could point some of them out. Looking at his watch, he informed us that the birds were all at the other side of the sanctuary at 3.00 in the afternoon. I asked what kind of birds were there. He replied that there were ‘many, many’ kinds of birds. A little later, we could hear a buzzing noise. I asked what the buzz was. The guide assured me he had already said they were at the other side of the sanctuary at this time. A quick glance at the smiles behind me left me in no doubt that there was no point in pushing the point – ‘buzz’, not ‘birds’. Still, we were left with a few running jokes for the rest of the trip. (We later saw the beehive that gave rise to the buzz.)
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After changing traveller’s cheques, we headed back to Sheepfold, where we gave Becky 17000 Kenyan Shillings each (just under £170). This would allow her to book our safari for us, while we were away in Garsen, although we hoped to receive change on return.
After a late meal, we hurried to Nairobi bus station by matatu (small Kenyan minibus). One of our two matatus took the wrong road and was promptly rescued by the other driver. Who knows where we would have ended up otherwise? It was late and dark as we waited with Tom, our Kenyan escort, in Nairobi bus station, huddled together, rejecting beggars and touts, and guarding our all-too-obvious stack of rucksacks. The hold of the bus was filled with coconuts on arrival, rather than luggage, and took quite some time to offload.
We travelled through the night, trying at first to decide if the road we were tearing up the middle of was just one carriage of a dual carriageway or not. After all, this was the main road between Kenya’s two largest cities. It soon became clear, however, that we were simply playing a game of chicken with oncoming vehicles. I managed to sleep better than most, despite the sudden lurches, blaring horn, loud music (Phil Collins), bright lights going on and off, and constant unscheduled stops – probably caused by police roadblocks.
I did wake briefly at one point as the bus swerved violently and skidded, braking hard. I opened my eyes to see a lioness slowly padding across the road, just in front of the bus, well lit by the bus headlights. Apparently, the rest of the team missed it, and thinking we were going to crash, found their minds drifting back to previous accidents they had been in. To me it was a brilliant sighting of a lion during a brief interlude in my sleep. To others, it was a terrifying near-death experience. Different perspectives played quite an important part in our later experiences. The preacher at the Youth service had asked if we were ready to die.
 

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